I've spent most of the past couple of days walking around the city (& hanging out on the beach). Most Uruguayans have light skin, and clothing styles are similar, so no one knows I'm American until I open my mouth. This is definitely a huge change from other places I've traveled, and I really like it--I feel like I'm getting a much more genuine view of the country. (Once I give myself away, they ask where in the US I'm from, and I was surprised by how many people had heard of Vermont. It turns out it's because Ross and Chandler from Friends took a trip there in one episode). There's a drugstore on almost every block, tons of bakeries with ridiculous numbers of different pastries, restaurants serving Uruguayan and Italian food (other international food is hard to come by), lots of McDonald's, and a concerning number of tiny beaten-up buildings advertising plastic surgery. I think my favorite thing about the city is that almost the entire waterfront is public. A walkway called the Rambla runs 17 kilometers along the Rio Plata and it's usually full of people walking, running, biking, or just sitting and enjoying the view. In many areas, there's a public beach on the other side. This one is Pocitos Beach, the one closest to my hostel. You can't really see the beach, but it's right behind those people.
By far the most frustrating thing is that I don't feel like my Spanish is improving very quickly. People at the small hostel where I'm living are from all over North and South America and Europe, which is great except that English is definitely the closest thing to a common language, so it's not great for practicing Spanish. When I talk to someone in a store, they often speak English and will switch over as soon as they hear my accent, even if I'm making sense in Spanish. They're trying to be helpful, but in the long run it makes it harder. Right now my Spanish is fine for getting around town and casual conversations, and I can read and write pretty comfortably, but once someone starts speaking quickly I usually get lost. No one enunciates and speaks slowly in real life like Spanish professors do! I've been using Dartmouth's free Rosetta Stone and reading the newspaper in Spanish, but neither is too helpful for understanding fast speech. I might take formal lessons if things don't improve, because I'll be much more useful to Plan Ceibal if I can actually understand what's going on around me!